Main Square

Daybreak at the stairs of Cuetzalan’s Main Square feels like a port or beach town, perhaps because of the white buildings and the mist that hangs between them. Palm trees and birds peak out of stone paving. It’s the home of Nahuas who haven’t lost the custom of dressing as their ancestors did, who haven’t forgotten the Danza de los Voladores, the flying ritual left by their Totonac ancestors.